Walk into a house built in 1974 and you’ll immediately feel it. That specific, slightly cramped, "stair-heavy" vibe. You know the one. You walk in the front door and you're immediately faced with a choice: go up five steps to the living room or down six steps to a dark family room that probably still smells like a basement. It’s the classic split-level dilemma. Honestly, these houses were the height of suburban efficiency fifty years ago, but today? They feel like a puzzle that someone started but never quite finished.
Remodeling a 70's split level home is a different beast compared to fixing up a mid-century ranch or a colonial. You aren't just painting walls. You're fighting a layout designed for a lifestyle that doesn't really exist anymore. Back then, rooms were "siloed." Mom was in the kitchen, the kids were in the "den," and the formal living room was a plastic-covered museum for guests. If you want to make this work in 2026, you have to be willing to kill some darlings.
I’ve seen people sink $100,000 into these homes only to realize they still hate the way the house flows. Why? Because they focused on the finishes—the quartz, the LVP, the matte black faucets—instead of the bones. If you don't fix the "split" in the split level, you're just putting a tuxedo on a hamster.
The Entryway Nightmare and Why It's Your First Boss Battle
Most 70's splits have a landing that’s about the size of a postage stamp. You open the door, and if there are more than two people entering at once, someone is getting pushed down the stairs. It's awkward. It's tight. It’s a bad first impression.
You can't really "decorate" your way out of a 4x4 landing. To actually fix this when remodeling a 70's split level home, you often have to think outside the existing footprint. One of the most successful moves involves bumping out the front door. By extending the entryway just four or five feet forward, you create a "mudroom" feel that allows for a bench, some hooks, and actual breathing room.
Another option? Glass. If you can’t make it bigger, make it feel less like a closet. Swapping out a solid wood door for something with massive glass panes—and maybe even a sidelight—changes the psyche of the space. Suddenly, you aren't trapped between two sets of stairs; you're in an airy transition zone.
Stop Trying to Make "Open Concept" Happen Everywhere
Everyone wants to tear down every wall. I get it. But in a split level, those walls are often doing heavy lifting, both structurally and acoustically. Because the floors are staggered, sound travels in a split level like a megaphone. If you rip out every wall on the main floor, someone watching TV in the lower level is going to hear every single clink of a fork in the kitchen.
Instead of a total gut job, think about "partial sightlines." This is a nuance many homeowners miss. You might take down the wall between the kitchen and the dining room, but keep a half-wall or a decorative screen between the kitchen and the entryway. This defines the space. It stops the house from feeling like one big, loud warehouse.
Designers like Joanna Gaines or the Scott brothers often talk about "zones," and in a 70's split, zones are your best friend. You want the kitchen to feel connected to the dining area, sure, but you also want a place to hide the dirty dishes when you're sitting in the living room.
The Kitchen: The Great 70's Bottleneck
The original 1970's kitchen was usually a "U-shape" tucked into a corner. It was efficient for one person, but if two people tried to cook, it was a contact sport.
When you're tackling the kitchen during a remodel, the biggest win is almost always moving the appliances. In the 70's, they loved putting the fridge right next to the entry or the stove in a spot that cut off all counter space. If you can move the plumbing or the gas line—which, yeah, costs a bit more—you can often fit a massive island where there used to be a cramped breakfast nook.
And please, for the love of all things holy, get rid of the soffits. Those weird drywall boxes above the cabinets? They serve no purpose other than to hide empty space (and sometimes a stray pipe). Taking cabinets all the way to the ceiling makes the standard 8-foot ceilings in these homes feel significantly taller. It’s a cheap trick that looks expensive.
Let's Talk About the Lower Level "Dungeon"
The lower level of a 70's split is usually halfway underground. This leads to two problems: it’s dark, and it’s potentially damp.
Most people just throw some new carpet down and call it a day. That’s a mistake. If you're remodeling a 70's split level home, the lower level is where you have the most potential for "value add."
- Lighting is everything. Recessed cans are standard, but add some wall sconces. They provide a "wash" of light that makes the room feel like a living space rather than a basement.
- The Floor. Stop using carpet. If there’s even a hint of moisture, carpet is a mold magnet. Luxury Vinyl Plank (LVP) is the king of split levels for a reason. It’s waterproof, it’s durable, and it can handle the temperature swings of a slab floor.
- The Windows. If your local building codes allow it, enlarge the windows. Even an extra six inches of height can double the amount of natural light coming in.
Exterior Siding: Moving Past the "Brady Bunch" Look
The outside of these homes is often a weird mix of T1-11 vertical siding, brick veneer, and maybe some decorative shutters that don't actually shut. It's a lot.
To modernize the exterior, you have to simplify the palette. Vertical siding (like Board and Batten) is actually back in style, but it needs to be done in a modern material like James Hardie fiber cement. Stick to one or two textures. If you have that 70's orange-y brick, don't be afraid to paint it or use a lime wash. I know, "never paint brick" is a common refrain, but on a 70's split, it’s often the only way to make the house look cohesive instead of like a Lego set made of random pieces.
Real Talk: The Budget Pitfalls
You’re going to find weird things. When you peel back the wallpaper, you might find "shag" carpet remnants used as insulation (true story). You might find aluminum wiring, which was common in the early 70's and is a major fire hazard.
Always keep 15% of your budget in a "what the heck is that" fund. You’ll need it for the electrical panel upgrade or the subfloor that’s rotted out near the sliding glass door.
Don't over-improve for the neighborhood, either. If every house on the block is a $400,000 split level, don't put in $150,000 worth of Italian marble. You won't get it back. Focus on the layout, the light, and the "liveability."
Specific Actionable Steps to Take Right Now:
- Audit your stairs. Measure the width. If they feel narrow, look into whether you can open up the railings. Swapping out chunky wooden balusters for thin metal ones can make the whole center of the house feel wider.
- Check the HVAC. Split levels are notoriously hard to heat and cool evenly. While the walls are open, consider adding "zones" to your HVAC system or installing a couple of mini-splits in the bedrooms.
- Kill the "Popcorn." 1970s ceilings are almost always textured. Scraping those ceilings is the single most labor-intensive but rewarding DIY project you can do. Just make sure to test for asbestos first if the house was built before 1978.
- Landscape for Height. Since split levels are low-slung, use landscaping to create some vertical interest. Plant a Japanese Maple or use tall, thin evergreens to draw the eye up and away from the "boxy" foundation.
- Address the "Garage Room." Many splits have a bedroom located directly above the garage. This room is usually freezing. When you remodel, pull down the garage ceiling and spray foam the underside of that floor. Your toes will thank you in January.
Remodeling a 70's split level home isn't about erasing the history of the house. It's about taking a design that was meant for "separation" and adapting it for "connection." It takes a bit more creativity than a standard renovation, but the result is a home that feels uniquely layered and surprisingly spacious. Fix the entry, open the kitchen, and light up the lower level. Do those three things, and you'll have the best house on the block.
